Read this first: This is just a reminder, in case you didn't see it above, that this can be a difficult project. First off, this means you shouldn't be trying this as the first thing you do. Second, you will need not only knowledge of how to make the weaves above, but also some of the concepts behind why they work, because you will not be using them in their most traditional form. Third, you will notice the 3 under physical difficulty, that label is there because many of the things you will do, mainly adding the last ring to a loop, will likly be physically difficult, and may require you to bend, twist, and weave rings differently then you are used to. Hopefully you've learned some of the tricks to adding tight rings along the way. Fourth, ring size is critical in a sculpture style piece like this one. Different metals with different spring backs, whether your rings are handmade or machine made, etc, may effect the success of this project, and in fact whether or not it is even possible. Fifth, I expect an advanced understanding of making chainmaile in these directions, so I'm not going to cover how to weave each single ring, and every minor detail, nor teach the weaves themselves as I do in some of my novice level instructions. If you have a question, or something is unclear, try to figure it out, check your ring sizes, look at the pictures, and if you still can't make it work, toss me an e-mail and I'll see what I can do for you. Sorry this sounds so harsh, but better to get this stuff out of the way upfront then have an inexperienced mailer try something they arn't ready for and give up on maille because of it, right? :-) That, and I remember stabbing myself twice in the chest with a pair of needle nose pliers trying to get a ring into one of these, and it hurt, chuckles. Now, on to the acctual directions!

(Notice: The original design for this type of candle holder was developed by Spider at www.spiderchain.com)

Step One:
First, you need to make a strand of 16 gauge 5/16" ID Nickel Silver 3/4 Persian, 20 units long. Warning, my picture is short one ring on the end at the lefthand side.

Step Two:
Now, the first semi-difficult part of the piece (didn't take long did it). You need to attach that strip of 3/4 Persian into a loop. This should be nice and tight, because if it isn't your candle holder is going to sag. Let me give you a couple tips on how to connect the ends. For explanations sake, this weave has two side rings and one top ring (whereas full persian would have an additional bottom ring). The top rings on both ends of the strip should connect through 4 other rings. Take the top ring from one end, and connect it to the two side rings on the other end as seen in the first picture. Make sure the weave is running in the same direction mine is. Now, take the last two side rings and connect them up through the top ring in the other side, between the two side rings. This might take a little bit of work, but it is the easiest way I've found (for me) to make a tight loop of 3/4 persian.

Step Three:
Next, add a stainless 16 5/16 ring through two rings of the loop, as shown in the first picture. Repeat this all the way around the loop, adding a total of 20 rings, until it looks like the second picture.

Step Four:
Add 2 rows of stainless 16 5/16 European 6-1 off of the row of rings added in the last step. This should take 40 rings.

Step Five:
I love making the middle of these things. But only because the ends are such a pain...
Now, add another row of 16 5/16 stainless European 6-1, followed by a row of 16 gauge 1/4" ID stainless, also European 6-1. This should be another 40 rings.

Step Six:
Now, add another row to our growing column. This time it should be 18 gauge 3/16" ID nickel silver European 4-1. 20 rings.

Step Seven:
Time for three more rows of European 4-1. The first is 16 5/16 stainless, the second 18 3/16 nickel silver and the third 16 5/16 stainless. That's a total of 60 rings.

Step Eight:
TIme to test your knowledge of half persian 3-1. I want you to add a row of half persian 3-1 trim, in 16 gauge 5/16" ID stainless, to the top row of European 4-1. Take a look at the pictures if you need some help. This will take, you guessed it, 20 rings.

Step Nine:
Okay so I tricked you, that wasn't the hard part, this is. I want you to finish off the trim with another row of 3-1 rings. These should be running vertically through that last set, on the outside of the candle holder, and should be made from 16 gauge 5/16" ID nickel silver. It's gonna be a tight fit, so have fun with that last one.
Well, that's it! Hopefully everything worked out, and your rings were the right side so that it stands up nice and straight, and doesn't sag around the edges as they are known to do if your rings are too large. Hopefully it wasn't very complicated for you, just a bit difficult to acctually do. One of these days I'll get around to making some instructions for a masters level piece and is both difficult & complicated, won't that just be fun? :-)
As for those of you advanced enough to find this project easy... well, I guess that means your ready to stop using directions and should go make your own! :-)
And, one last thing I should address. You may be wondering by this point why I switched to 4-1 instead of keeping it 6-1 the whole way up (thus making it a bit straighter and tighter). Well, the reason I did this was to get the cupping effect you should see at the top. Why did I want that? Well, A) I think it looks good, and B) It should allow it to fit those machine made tapers with the shaped bottoms, whereas a straight 6-1 column cannot. If those things are not a concern to you, it works just as well with 6-1 for the entire column.
Well, that's all from me I think; enjoy your candle holder!