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Step One:
Weave a short 3 row band of European 4-1 from the 1/8" ID rings.
This band should be 7 rings long in the middle row, and 6 rings long in either of the outside rows.
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Step Two:
Create a triangle of European 4-1 off either side of band. The first row you add should be
5 rings long, followed by 4 rings, 3 rings, 2 rings, and then 1 ring. Leave the other side
of the band alone for now.
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Step Three:
Now, set the piece you just made aside while we prepare to place (saturn) the bead in the
large ring at the top.
Take one of the two 1" pieces of 24 gauge wire, and, using the wire bending pliers, create a small
loop on one end. The loops should have an ID just slightly large than .048" (18 gauge wire).
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Step Four:
Next, string one of the 4mm beads onto the piece of 24 gauge wire, until it butts up
against the loop. Open one of the 7/32" ID rings, and run it through the loop. Now, (and this is the
tricky part) position the wire so that it lays over the widest part of the ring, loop on one side, straight
wire on the other. Bend the wire opposite the loop 90 degrees over the edge of the ring. In the opposite
direction of the previous loop.
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Step Five:
Take the wire where the 90 degree bend is, and (using your wire bending pliers) create a
loop just slightly larger than .048" (18 gauge wire). Make sure this loop goes in the opposite direction
of the first one, and even them out so that they run parallel along the wire (see picture from step 6).
Make sure the piece fits on your ring. If it doesn't, either adjust it or try again.
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Step Six:
We now have to add a small coil on one side of the finding we made to position the bead
where we want it. To do this, take one of your pieces of 30-34 gauge wire, and string one end through
either of the loops about 1/4". Using 1 pair of needle nose pliers, clamp the wire to the loop. Now,
take the other end of the wire in your other hand, and wrap it carefully around the finding. Wrap it
until bead is close to the loop on the other side, but leave it a little bit of room. Now, snip the ends
of the wire on both sides of the coil, and use your pliers to make sure the ends are coiled aroudn the
finding and not sticking out.
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Step Seven:
Find that piece of 4-1 you set aside earlier. You are going to take the 7/32" ID ring
and run it through the first 3 rings in the top row of 6. Next, the end of the finding with the coil
onto the 7/32" ID ring. String the 7/32" ID ring through the last three rings of that row, such that
the finding is now trapped in the middle of the 6 rings. Place the other end of the finding onto the
7/32" ID ring. Close it. Add two more 1/8" ID rings onto the 7/32" ID ring, one on either side of
the finding.
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Step Eight:
Set the earring aside. Now, take one of the 2" pieces of 21-22 gauge wire and make a
small loop in one end with the round nose pliers, the loop should have an ID of roughtly .06".
Bend the wire back slightly with the round nose pliers so that the rest of the piece runs straight
out from the loop.
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Step Nine:
String one of the 4mm beads onto the piece of wire you just bent until it butts up against
the loop. Position the peice in your hand such that your thumb is against the thin side of the loop, and
the nail of your index finger is at the top of the bead. using your other hand, bend the wire back against
your nail about 45 degrees. This should lock the bead in place, you might want to check and make sure it
won't slide up past the bend. If it does, bend the wire back more, creating a sharper bend.
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Step Ten:
Using the larger part of your round nose pliers, create the loop for the top of the ear wire.
Cut end to an appropriate length, usually so that it comes down about 1/8" farther than the small loop. Take
one 1/8" ID ring and run it through the two rings at the top of the earring, and the small loop of the earwire,
such that when worn the coil on the finding is in the front. Repeat steps 1-10 to make the second earring.
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